Jalandhara Devi’s abode, a sandstone temple built in Nagara style with exquisite and rich stone carvings depicting amorous scenes, whets your curiosity, and you are irresistibly drawn to it. The temple has an uncanny resemblance to the famed temples of Khajuraho, yet, regrettably forced to fade into oblivion.
“Jalandhara Devi Temple is an architectural gem. It is a classic example of the flourishing temple building process in Jammu region and puts Udhampur on the map of early medieval cultural vibrancy radiating all the way from major centres of temple architecture like Khajuraho,” remarks Nagendra Singh Jamwal, CEO, Surinsar Mansar Development Authority.
The one-of-its kind temple in Northern India is located in village Kotli, near Laddan Power Station in Udhampur district. It has to be reached through a hilly forest trail, roughly 750m long. Shiwalik hills and River Tawi add to the virgin beauty of this picturesque site in the remote area.
As per a school of thought, one of the earlier Chenani Kings had built the temple which enshrines their ‘kul devi’, Jalandhara Mata, in the form of a ‘pindi’. Nagendra Singh Jamwal ascribes the temple construction to King Jalandhara of Trigarta (Kangra) in 10th Century AD.
Rajinder Chand Anthal, Retired Zonal Education Officer, says, “Chenani kings belonged to Chandel dynasty, and they had come from Bundelkhand (Madhya Pradesh) to Chenani in 8th or 9th Century AD, via Bilaspur (Himachal Pradesh). They built the temple, dedicating it to their ‘kul devi’, Jalandhara Mata, who is a form of Shakti.”
Pertinently, village Kotli was the last boundary of Chenani – one of the most famous and oldest among 22 princely hill states, all of which now comprise the erstwhile state of J&K.
Lalit Gupta notes, “The temple is a unique fusion of ‘margi’ and ‘desi’ traditions. While the temple’s architectural features are based on typical Nagara style, the sculptural decorations on the temple walls are executed in a folk idiom.”
“The temple, from a look at the row of Siddhas/Tantric Gurus/ carved on the walls and portion above the lintel, seems to have been commissioned by a local king who was into some kind of Tantric cult. There are ample references like folk tales and many other anecdotes that speak of Chenani as a center of Tantric religious cults, which were practised by the royalty, the elite and commoners also,” Gupta asserts.
Prof Shiv Nirmohi mentions that the temple might be a centre of Vaam Marg, at some point of time in history. He adds, “The temple appears to be a creation of Chenani rulers, because they belonged to the Shaiv Sect. Additionally, the temple worships Shakti, which can be explained by the spread of Shaktism to the eastern side of River Tawi.”
According to Mrinalini Aatrey, Assistant Professor History, University of Jammu, “The carvings of different gods, goddesses, and designs in the temple have been done by local artisans, though idea appears to have come from outside. Had non-local artists made these sculptures, they would have been very intricate. It is a mixture of local and non-local art.”
She adds, “The origin of the temple is obscure. Mithun art, which is related to Tantric Cult, has us confused. We are working with leading artists and historians from different states, and it might take two-three months to formalize everything about this temple.”
Officially, Jalandhara Devi Temple is a protected site, which has not been enough for it to get due attention from the government, Tourism Department or people. SRO – 281 dated 26-06-1986 declaring the temple a state protected site, has provided merely signboard for the temple in all these years.
Likewise, a fort situated close to the temple, built by one of the later Chenani Kings with the angle of safeguarding the territorial boundary, is in ruins. It is a protected site too. This being said, Directorate of Archives, Archaeology and Museums, J&K has sanctioned Rs 30 Lakhs, on 11th July 2019, asking the Directorate of Tourism, Jammu to carry out the renovation and repair of the fort.
RC Anthal reveals, “The rule of Chenani Kings was gradually confined and Jalandhara Devi temple was forced out of their territory following the Treaty of Amritsar, 1846, signed by Maharaja Gulab Singh. As such, they built another temple in their Chenani jagir, however smaller and devoid of amorous sculptures,” calling it the first instance when the temple was desolated.
He adds, “The future generations of the Chandels, also known by their surname Anthal, started to organize their congregations at Chenani temple instead of Jalandhara Devi Temple. This is where the community neglected the temple of its kul devi.”
At present, the local villagers residing near the temple look after it and worship the deity. Although, they have no knowledge of its origin and significance.
Anthal rues the fact that while Khajuraho temples hog the national and international limelight for their erotic sculptures, Jalandhara Devi temple built on similar line is nonexistent to the people of its own state.
He demands preservation and promotion of the temple, besides formulation of an overall policy for Jammu’s rich heritage.
Temple Architecture:
The west–faced temple, having two essential elements – antraal (vestibule) and garbhgreh (sanctum), is built atop an evenly raised platform. The idols installed or carved here are extremely benign and artistic.
“Almost every shila (stone/rock) has some or the other sculpture or design on it, which try to tell a story. It is such an old work, but clearly visible till date,” tells RC Anthal.
Two pillars, 2.1m in height, stand equidistant on both sides of the antraal, with dwaarpals carved on them. The antraal is contained in a 0.9m wide path between these pillars.
The lintel at the entrance has, in ascending order, idols of Lord Ganesha, nine Goddesses on their respective vehicles, Lord Brahma and three-faced Sun.
The entrance of garbhgreh, 1.5m high and 0.75m wide, is bedecked with idols of Lord Ganesha, Gandhervas, and Ganga-Yamuna.
Jalandhara Devi’s pindi form, 0.30m high and 0.80m wide, resides in the quadratic garbhgreh. She has eyes made of silver. Facing the pindi is a 0.50m high and 0.30m wide idol of the four-armed deity riding a lion. The idol is carved on a soft rock, with a bull at its base.
Prof Shiv Nirmohi remarks, “The deity’s idol is different from those found in the Duggar region, but similar to the ones sighted in Himachal Pradesh.”
The garbhgreh, with 2.8m high cella on the inside, has a yantra (apparatus) carved on its ceiling, wherein 11 snake faces and 14 snake hoods depict 11 rudras and 14 tapasyas. Further, it has a provision for lighting diya. Probably, it was to keep the temple illuminated during the night.
The external walls of the temple are adorned with lively idols of mythological characters, geometrical shaped lines and flower vines.
The northern wall, 3.25m long, has a chaityakaar-shaped bhadrarath in the middle. An idol once installed in the bhadrarath is nowhere to be found now. The idol on its right, 0.50m tall and 0.45m wide, shows Bhimsen shaking a tree, causing Kauravs and half-dressed women to fall from it. Another idol on the same wall, carved above the dev koshtak, has vanar sena, Sugreev and his wife. Towards the left are the idols relating to Krishna Leela, wherein, Lord Krishna and his gopiyaan are sculpted in dance postures. Also, there are idols of Indra Dev riding his vehicle Iravat, the elephant; Lord Brahma and dwaarpals.
The eastern wall, 3.45m long, has a dev koshtak at centre, now empty. Above the koshtak are idols of Varaah, Narsingh and Kurm – incarnations of Lord Vishnu, while remaining depict warriors involved in mal yuddh (wrestling with hands).
It is the southern wall, where one finds amorous sculptures of humans – unwrought and transient. Ten-headed Raavan is etched above the bhadrarath, with Apsaras on both sides.
The temple, with 1m wide and unsheathed perambulation track, is surmounted by a shikhara, capped with a huge ribbed stone amalaka.
Prof Shiv Nirmohi states, “The time, labour, money and perseverance involved in making of this fenestral temple makes one astonished.”
Also: Read my article at THE NEWS NOW
A temple in Jammu unheard of
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