Everytime I wear my ‘only’ tilla embroidered velvet suit, I am enveloped by its warmth and luxurious ehsaas.
Tilla embroidery has been cherished by the people of Jammu and Kashmir for years. Tilla is a fashion statement and it never goes out of style. In fact, even today, a Kashmiri bride’s trousseau is considered incomplete without a tilla dress.
Tilla embroidery is one of the most celebrated Kashmiri handicrafts, where the silver, golden or copper hues of tilla (zari) threads run magically into the fabric and embellish it with royalty.
The legend has it that ‘Tilla Dozi’ was introduced by Shah-e-Hamadan, a Muslim Saint, in a village called ‘Zari’, in Iran. Following Timur’s invasion, he migrated to Kashmir, bringing with him the craft.
The traditional tilla designs draw inspiration from the immense scenic beauty that has been bestowed on Kashmir, and the Persian culture.
Paisley (Karrey or Buta), Lotus (Pamposh), Rose (Gulab), Almond (Badam), Maple leaves (Chinar), Vine (Dachh), Cypress (Sarav), Iris (Sosan), Hyacinth (Sumbal), Narcissus (Yambarzal), Pomegranate (Dainposh) and the abstract forms of birds, animals, humans are some of the most loved motifs, used in a million styles, patterns and sizes with utmost finesse.
From pherans and shawls, tilla can now also be seen on suits, sarees, and lehengas of various colours and fabrics. The designs vary from traditional patterns to contemporary demands of the consumer.
With time, machines have entered the domain of handicrafts. Tilla is no different. In an increasingly growing market, machines definitely aid the fewer artisans that remain, but is it a decline for the high quality craft? Food for thought!
Tilla is as painstaking and time consuming craft for the artisan, as important it is as an economic activity for Kashmir. Tilla embroidery is a cultural pearl of Jammu and Kashmir, and must be nurtured, forever.
waliaharry 